Other Cadillac engines.

[STDog]

Anyone here kow what it will take to put the engine from a late 70's, early 80's Cadillac in a '72 Deville?

My brother in law just spun a bearing in his 472. I found a running engine from RWD cadillac for $100. The trans on it is real short.

Not sure what the engine is though. Maybe a 368? Could be a 425 though. I don't think it's a V8-6-4 though, since I didn't see any computer or EFI stuff.

Any tips on figuring out the engine?

Will these bolt-in, or will it take som mount changes?

[Mark --]

Year would of helped - but after 76 they were 425 and then later 368's. There could of been year's with both 425's and 368's in the 80's - I just didn't pay attention until much later.....

[pageboy]

The '77 through '79 had the 425, and the '368 was used as the V-4-6-8 in '80 and then as a regular V8 in 81. The 368s used an aluminum intake and plastic valve covers and oil pan. The block is externally the same as the earlier 472/500, the earlier long tailshaft transmission will bolt to them, and the thing will drop right in the car. He's going to be real disappointed with a 425 in that heavy of a car though. They were weak enough in the '77s through '79s that were 800 lbs. lighter. :|

[dave_brode]

STDog,

The '77 up rwd engines have a mid sump pan, that will not fit his chassis. The '77-'79 425 would bolt in, using his pan and pu tube. His points distributor would work, or just use the HEI.

Afaik, the 368 might be a problem, as the 472's pu tube may not fit the 368. His exh manifolds will bolt on, but afaik, the 425 rwd manifolds may work too.

Afaik, you can tell a 425 from a 368 by the flange on the crank. There are pics of them *somewhere* online, but I can't recall where.
Dave



"]Anyone here kow what it will take to put the engine from a late 70's, early 80's Cadillac in a '72 Deville?

My brother in law just spun a bearing in his 472. I found a running engine from RWD cadillac for $100. The trans on it is real short.

Not sure what the engine is though. Maybe a 368? Could be a 425 though. I don't think it's a V8-6-4 though, since I didn't see any computer or EFI stuff.

Any tips on figuring out the engine?

Will these bolt-in, or will it take som mount changes?[/quote]

[STDog]

Thanks guys.
Yeah, big power drop. But what's a guy to do? I spent my available funds on my engine (400 miles one it now. woo-hoo!) I don't even know where he'll get $100 for this engine.
I can find 472's running for a good price, even whole cars, but they are all too far away to go get, and freight is horrible.

I figured the pan and pickup would need changed from looking at it, and the motor mounts(still on the block) too.

I haven't seperated the engine and trans yet so I cannot see the crank flange.

It's HEI, but the cap is busted. But I can put the pionts distributor in? Cool.
The carb is a Q-jet, with electric choke, I hoe it works. The intake doesn't seam to have room for the coil from his carb.

The's some thing bolted to the intake behind the carb that I don't recognize. Looks like a vacuum motor. Any guesses? I want to disconnect as much of the emisions stuff as I can.

One more thing. How to get this out? The starter won't turn the engine, I doubt I cane either. So how to get the TC loose?
Any one here had top pull an frozen engine? I don't think I can pull the engine and trans as a unit due to space.

[dave_brode]

STDog,


<It's HEI, but the cap is busted. But I can put the pionts distributor in? Cool.

Yes, the point dist will work in a 425, but one 12v wire to the HEI will allow it to work. The positive wire running to his coil will fire it, but it has a section of resistor wire in the harness somewhere, so the voltage will be lower than 12v. You could remove that section, or run a new 12v wire to the HEI. The resistor wire section will be much stiffer than normal wiring. It's probably in the under-hood harness somewhere. Un-tape the harness to find it.

< The carb is a Q-jet, with electric choke, I hoe it works. The intake doesn't seam to have room for the coil from his carb.

As long as the Q-J isn't electronic, it'll do fine. The electronic versions have wiring going to them [the front/top, not the choke]

< The's some thing bolted to the intake behind the carb that I don't recognize. Looks like a vacuum motor. Any guesses? I want to disconnect as much of the emisions stuff as I can.

Probably an egr valve. Fyi - for the cost of an intake gasket set, you could put his intake and carb on a 425. That way, you could mount his coil, and keep his detent [kickdown] switch, which is probably mounted below the carb on the 472 intake.

< One more thing. How to get this out? The starter won't turn the engine, I doubt I cane either. So how to get the TC loose?
Any one here had top pull an frozen engine? I don't think I can pull the engine and trans as a unit due to space.[/quote]

You might have to pull them both, then pull the trans off of the convertor to get to the bolts. Try turning the engine backwards by hand. You might luck out and get it to turn enough to get to all 3 bolts.
Dave

[STDog]

Fyi - for the cost of an intake gasket set, you could put his intake and carb on a 425. That way, you could mount his coil, and keep his detent [kickdown] switch, which is probably mounted below the carb on the 472 intake.

That may be the best way. I wasn't sure if the 472 intake would bolt on.
It's raining again, so I cannot check, but I think only the choke is electric.
Keeping the cab might be good thiough. His choke doesn't work any way.
So if then electric choke works, the same 12V line for it can go the the HEI distributor.

[CadillacPat]

STDog,
Depending on how long you want to wait, finding a 472 is a better idea. I have bought almost a dozen 472/500's in the last five years and have found running 472's to go for $125-$200 (the most I have spent for one is $125). Because 500's are slightly more desirable, 472's go for less. However, a good running 425 for $100 would be a good idea to install in the car until you can find a 472...
472's show up on ebay regularly, but since they are scattered about the country, finding one fairly close might take some time. Your best bet is to regularly check ebay (at least every 3-5 days because of three and five day auctions). I live in Michigan and have traveled up to 660 miles to get engines.
Pulling the engine and trans is not only fairly easy, but the way I usually remove them. You have to remove the radiator and tilt the engine/trans a great amount to clear the radiator core support.
Removing the torque converter on a locked-up engine is fairly easy once you remove the trans from the engine (after removing them together from the car). Since the crank is probably ruined, you would probably be removing it when disassembling the engine anyway. Keep the rest of the engine for parts as you have the desirable "5200" series block and closed-chamber heads. I have a 472 crank I would sell, but the shipping cost would make if better for you to find an entire engine.