Water pump bolts

[Morella]

What do you do when you've already wrestled with the water pump, you try to put the last 1/4" bolt in, and the threads in the front cover are damaged? Of course, this almost never happens, right?

I got the leaky bolt back out, smothered it in RTV and put it back in. I managed to just barely catch a thread and snub it a little. I haven't pressurized it yet, but so far it hasn't leaked, just sitting there with coolant in it.

Suppose it leaks, or a different one does? Are there any other options for repairing it with the pump on? The hole in the pump is too small to tap it or helicoil from the outside.

Suppose I have to pull the front cover (gawd, I hope not). Can I weld a nut onto the back side, or is there a better fix?

One more question. The reason I didn't pressure test this morning was that I couldn't get the engine warm enough to build up pressure. Seriously, after 20 minutes I could still open the cap and dip my finger in the coolant, and the block wasn't hot. I think that this may because of a fan mod that I did, but it is also possible that I have air locked in the system. There is a gurgling noise, possibly in the heads near the intake, after I shut it off. The heater works.

Any ideas?

thanks

-denise

[76Eldo_convertFI]

Well now, are you trying to do everything that I've done wrong? HEHE! :shock: Been there, done that.

I can't remember the exact size but I went through this with my 68' convertible but it was one of the small bolts that went into the timing cover only.

I 1st tested for the right sized metric bolt that would fit into the water pump's hole, then drilled & tapped the timing cover. Can't remember if it was a #7 or #8 metric bolt, but I was able to buy the bolt & tap at my local True Value hardware store. Which ever it is, it's just a wee bit larger than the sae bolt.

I used to make a joke about it being the ONLY metric part in O'l Lulu.

[STDog]

Suppose it leaks, or a different one does? Are there any other options for repairing it with the pump on? The hole in the pump is too small to tap it or helicoil from the outside.

Suppose I have to pull the front cover (gawd, I hope not). Can I weld a nut onto the back side, or is there a better fix?

That sems the best plan. becareful though, the font cover will warp easilly.
I have nuts brazed to the back, because I didn't have a welder handy. I think grinding the back flat, drill out the hole, and welding anut would be the best fix. Shiould have been done that way originally. The production design sucks.

The metric tap would work in a pinch, and is doable without remopving the pump or cover. You should be able to helicoil it if you remove the pump.
But weld a nut on next time you have the cover off.

One more question. The reason I didn't pressure test this morning was that I couldn't get the engine warm enough to build up pressure. Seriously, after 20 minutes I could still open the cap and dip my finger in the coolant, and the block wasn't hot. I think that this may because of a fan mod that I did, but it is also possible that I have air locked in the system. There is a gurgling noise, possibly in the heads near the intake, after I shut it off. The heater works.

Are you sure the thermostat is not stuck? If the thermostat is stuck open, and you have a really good fan/radiator combo, it could take a while to warm up. Try blocking the radiator, to see if it warm up. Once the pump is pushiong water it should clear the air out.

You say the hearter works. You mean hot air from it? Are the heater hoses hot?

[Morella]

I ran it just a couple of minutes last night and it warmed up and pressurized just the way it should have. Maybe there is a ghostie in there that is playing with me.

The metric bolt idea sound pretty good. I couldn't get a 5/16" tap in it, but metric. Yeah. That's an excellent idea.

So far so good. I drove it to work today and it's not leaking.

Amen on the design flaw. It looks like it was made to be put together once and forgotten. Considering that the rest of the engine is so well-made, I don't know what they were thinking.

-denise

[STDog]

Amen on the design flaw. It looks like it was made to be put together once and forgotten. Considering that the rest of the engine is so well-made, I don't know what they were thinking.

It's a cheap method. If the bolts ar properly torqued it's fine. But it's way to easy to over torque them, even with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Since 90% of automotive work is done with a 3/8" ratchet, those threads are toast. I don't remember for sure, but I think those small bolts have a torque spec in inch-pounds. Just enought to seal the gasket when the pump and cover are flat and smooth. Most front covers are not any more, having rust pits from years of water exposure.

The best idea is an aluminum (or other, non-ferrous metal) cover. That's what should have been used from the beginning. Most know aluminum is soft, and take better care when tightening bolts in aluminum.

The valve covers and oilpan are almost as bad when using cork gaskets. Again way to easy to over torque them with normal tools.

[gilby246]

before i even installed my front cover i went ahead and welded some nuts to the back of it. I didnt even want to take the chance.... worked out well